It's easy to forget how big Islamabad actually is. When the Islamabad Capital Territory (ICT) was first established in 1960, it included not only what is now Islamabad, but also the city of Rawalpindi, which is now included in Punjab Province. But even with the exclusion of Rawalpindi, ICT extends way up into the Margalla Hills, almost all the way out to Taxila, out east way past Rawal Lake and south to include Rawat, where the Grand Trunk Road (GT Road) meets Islamabad Highway, and parts of Bahria Town, which is south of Rawalpindi. You can check out the limits of the city on this map, on Islamabad's official homepage.
Included within this area, within the city limits, are a surprisingly number of colorful and remote-feeling sites, far from the relative suburban dullness of F-6 and F-7 Markets, and the sterile Blue Area. This post is about one of these sites, the Buddhist caves of Shah Allah Ditta (also known as the Sadhu ka Bagh) and the Losar Baoli, or Stepwell, nearby way up in the Margalla Hills. These sites, though minor, present a pleasant small cluster of things to see, as well as a peaceful spot for a quiet picnic.
The caves of Shah Allah Ditta are said to date to the Buddhist period, and include remnants of Buddhist-era murals. We did not see any such remnants, but the small chambers carved out of the hillside, and the clear spring flowing out, do suggest ancient human habitation. After a brief tour and a go on the installed swing, the keepers will, for a small charge, serve you tea on the charpoys under the trees.
Driving all the way up the Margalla Hills from here take you to similar heights as Pir Sohawa and the area around Monal Restaurant, with similar views, but without any of the crowds. The times we've been, we've seen one or two cars maximum. All the way top, where the paved road ends, is Losar Baoli, a small but solid built and well preserved step well said to date from Mughal times (specifically, during the reign of non-Mughal Sher Shah Suri). If you walk up and to the left behind the well, you will find spots that are suitable for a quiet picnic, with good views of the uninhabited hills.
Practicalities
Getting to these sites is fairly straightforward. You can head west on Margalla Road (Khayaban-e-Iqbal) all the way west toward E-11, and then either turn north into D-12, cutting onto Shah Allah Ditta Road from D-12's southwest corner, or head out on Golra Road from the Golra Sharif Shrine, turning right onto Shah Allah Ditta Road. After you pass the small village of Shah Allah Ditta, the caves are prominently located in front of the road just as it turns left up the hill past a couple of restaurants. The well is located on top of the hills, so just drive up up up the curvy mountain road, and park where the asphalt ends. You will see a small sign in Urdu and a small one room concrete shack. The well (which is a bit difficult to spot at first since it is underground) is located just to the right of the shack. A short walk up the hill from here, such as behind the well to the left, leads to nice picnic spots with views. Note that while google maps shows the road continuing past the well, all the way through to the Khanpur area, we have been told that the road is not motorable (not even as a dirt road), and so we do not recommend you try it.
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