Wah Gardens

This blog is really intended for residents and long-term visitors to Islamabad.  Not everything covered here, and certainly not the places covered in my last two posts, would be considered a world-class site that is worthy of a traveler spending a limited amount of time in Pakistan.  The site covered in this post, however, while also not quite worthy of a special visit, is an easy add-on to Taxila.

The civilizations of Iran and South Asia are famous for their gardens, or baghs.  From the gardens of Shiraz, Iran, to the Shalimar Gardens of Lahore and the gardens in the Mughal Palaces of India, the familiar geometric layouts, always with plenty of flowing water and fountains, of Iranian-style gardens are emblematic of the aesthetic sophistication and poetic romance of this region.  Sadly, many of these gardens in the Subcontinent have fallen into disrepair--but even in ruins they carry a sense of the idyllic lifestyle of beauty that Mughal royals were able to enjoy, in the height of their power.

Islamabad is not located near a Mughal center of power, and therefore is not close to major Mughal architectural remnants, but there is a Mughal garden, said to be constructed by no less than Shah Jahan, the great builder of Old Delhi, only about an hour away to the north:  Wah Gardens.

Occupying a surprisingly large area, Wah Gardens contains ruins of what must have been beautiful pavilions and fountains.  Still remaining are channels of clear water throughout the site, fed from what appears to be an ample natural source and filling a large rectangular tank, used by local boys for swimming.  Toward the north end of the gardens, you will see a gate and rampart where you can climb to the top of the walls for a view of the village of Wah Gardens to the west, including the house referenced in the next paragraph, and the area immediately outside, which judging by its disused water channels must in the past have been part of the gardens themselves.

After you've enjoyed the gardens, you can continue down the road to visit the village of Wah Gardens, where there is a notable historical house, said to be built by the British in the early 20th century for a prominent citizen, Nawab Hayat Khan.  When we were in Wah, we were not able to enter this house, but we were able to visit a nearby local house with an impressive interior not dissimilar to (though also not quite approaching) elaborate houses in Damascus or Bukhara.  Poke around, and see what you can discover!

Practicalities

Wah Gardens is located just to the north of the city of Wah, which lies on Grand Trunk Road just north of the turnoff for Taxila.  Note that, as you approach the city of Wah, you should NOT turn off of GT Road toward the Pakistan Ordinance Factories.  This road has a tollbooth-type police checkpoint that may turn you away; if you just continue to the left on GT Road, you can continue without any checkpoint, until you pass the city of Wah altogether.  The turnoff to Wah Gardens is on the left just before you reach the bridge outside of town; there should be a small sign.